Masses of black cherry, ashen stone, leather strap and a lifting whiff of mentholated herbs form a captivating bouquet as the 2020 Rosso di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. It’s silky and pliant, with a burst of inner sweetness up front that gives way to depths of tart wild berries with mineral underpinnings. This holds its power in reserve, finishing lightly structured and spicy, while leaving tarry raspberry and cranberry nuances to linger through the crunchy finale. Unlike many other wines of the vintage, this is a 2020 Rosso that’s built for the cellar.